Wild. Beautiful.  Rich in history and culture. But wild is the word that keeps coming back when I think of Shetland.

Travelling to Shetland is by boat or air.  It’s perhaps further away than you think.  Half way to Norway from Aberdeen in fact.  If you are a fan of the TV Detective series 'Shetland', then you’ll be accustomed to Perez asking someone to get him on the next flight. However that is not as easy as he makes it sound.  In reality the flights are often cancelled due to poor weather.  The backup is then the long (14 hours) and often rough ferry journey.  And if you have joined the ferry last minute, you may well be without a cabin.  The all night bar may be a solace. And the next flight is probably over-subscribed. 

I was lucky that my trip to Shetland was blessed with mainly blue skies and both of my flights were painless.  This is not the everyday experience of islanders for whom the stress of cancelled flights and ferries makes all the appointments that must be attended in Scotland, let alone trying to get on holiday, a constant test of their patience.  Yet they seem to be very patient and overwhelmingly welcoming people. (If you don't know the story of the 'Shetland Bus', don't leave the islands until you do, and you'll feel you know Shetlanders much better...)

Historically life here was incredibly tough and even now, whilst Shetlanders enjoy very long summer days, this means the harsh winters are punctured with very little light - it is a time when nearly everyone takes Vitamin D and keeps busy.  Snow is a rarity and the temperature varies less than it does in the rest of the UK, but with nowhere in Shetland being further than four miles from the sea, morning mist can linger for several days in a row. It is hard to imagine how the old crofters eked a living out of this unforgiving landscape, yet there are many uninhabited crofts reminding you that they did.  Today’s Shetlanders make the most of their sunshine by growing vegetables in greenhouses and sometimes erecting a second to sit in to shelter from the wind, whilst still enjoying the light and often staggeringly beautiful views.

By way of compensation for this harsh environment, the infrastructure is very well maintained. Roads are in fine fettle and the ferries mainly run on time, albeit that sometimes staff shortages or a missing part can cause a problem. Support for the arts seems to be more comprehensive than I’ve seen anywhere else and the cost of housing is cheap.  But finding a tradesman to do up your abandoned croft could be a headache and if you are not good at “making do”, this could be a frustrating place to live. However this seems to be home to those who tolerate these day to day annoyances simply because they love the pace of life, the landscape and its flora and fauna - it was not hard to see why.

For a visitor the joy of driving on nearly empty roads through this stunning wilderness is hard to describe. The light on the water, the discovery of tombolos (double sided beaches), the clamber up the narrow internal steps of the last standing broch, and the sight of fat seals lazing on the beach before their ungainly shuffle into the clearest blue waters, all make for an unforgettable experience. Discovering Jimmy Perez’s hang outs in Lerwick was also fun, and even though a walk to see the most northerly lighthouse in the UK was thwarted by a little mist, the amble across the peaty lands and the hearty soup beforehand at the only little café for miles around made for another great day out. 

Pray for good weather and go exploring.  The coast is all so beautiful and the deserted sandy beaches call you for windy walks.  It does not seem necessary for me to name specific places.  I share some photos and hope you will share my luck and enjoy the call of this wild.  I adored it.  

On a personal note, huge thanks to Sally, Denise and Robert who made my trip both possible and wonderful.